Question 1

How long does a new roof actually last?

Accepted Answer

A Marley Edgemere or Duo Edge concrete tile roof installed to BS 5534 with a BBA-approved vapour-permeable underlay and dry-fix ridge should last 60 years. That is the manufacturer guarantee on the tile. Welsh slate done properly will outlast most owners; we have stripped 100-year-old Penrhyn slate, cleaned it, sorted it for breakage, and relaid it on the same property. The variable is not the tile but the underlay, the battens, the fixings, and the ridge detail. Get any of those wrong and a 60-year roof becomes a 25-year roof.

Question 2

What is the real-world difference between Welsh slate and concrete tile?

Accepted Answer

Welsh slate from Penrhyn quarry is harder, thinner, and heavier per square metre than concrete tile. It will outlast concrete tile by decades when laid correctly. The cost is roughly 30 to 50% more for materials and labour. In practice, we specify Welsh slate where the property is listed, sits in a conservation area, or where the homeowner wants a genuine like-for-like replacement on an original slate roof. Concrete tile at Marley Edgemere or Duo Edge is the right call for the majority of post-war semi-detached stock; it performs well, it is BBA approved, and the 60-year guarantee is manufacturer-backed.

Question 3

Do I need scaffolding for a reroof?

Accepted Answer

Yes, every time. A reroof requires stripping the deck to the rafter line and relaying every layer: underlay, batten, tile, ridge. That work cannot be done safely or correctly from ladders. Scaffold goes up before we start and comes down after the ridge and verge are finished and all waste is cleared. The scaffold cost is included in our fixed-price reroof quote.

Question 4

When does repair stop being economic and a reroof start making sense?

Accepted Answer

Our rule of thumb: if the repair cost is more than 40% of what a new roof would cost, the repair is rarely good value. You get a patched deck with ageing underlay that still needs replacing inside five years. Specific triggers that push us toward recommending a reroof: more than a third of the tiles are porous or cracked, the underlay is split and visible through the loft hatch, or the battens have rotted at the fixing points. We will always tell you clearly which side of that line your roof sits on after inspection.

Question 5

Can you keep my existing tiles if they are still in good condition?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes. On an original Welsh slate roof where the slates are sound and the deck is the problem, we can strip, stack, sort, and relay the original slate onto new battens and underlay. Typical breakage in a careful strip is 10 to 20%, which we make up with matching new slate. On concrete tile, it is rarely worth recovering because handling causes hairline cracking and the tile profile rarely sits true a second time. We inspect and advise on the day of survey.

Question 6

Will my new-roof warranty still be valid when I sell the house?

Accepted Answer

Yes. The 10-year workmanship guarantee through Q Assure is insurance-backed and transfers to the new owner on sale. We register the Marley tile system guarantee and the Q Assure workmanship cover in the homeowner name on the day the scaffold comes down, and we provide the certificates in writing. Solicitors accept these on conveyancing without issue.

Question 7

How long does the job take from scaffold up to scaffold down?

Accepted Answer

A standard three-bedroom semi reroof is typically three to five working days on scaffold. That covers strip and disposal of the old roof, new underlay and batten, tiling, ridge, verge, and any hip or valley work. Add one day if there is a chimney stack requiring lead flashing as part of the scope. Weather holds things up occasionally on the tiling day; we build a half-day contingency into every programme.

Question 8

Do you remove and dispose of the old roof materials?

Accepted Answer

Yes, full strip and disposal is included in the reroof price. We skip-hire direct; there is no separate charge. Old concrete tile, underlay, and batten go in the skip. Original Welsh slate that is salvageable we stack and offer back to the homeowner; it has resale value. If you do not want it, it goes to a slate merchant rather than landfill.

Question 9

Will your lorries damage my driveway?

Accepted Answer

We use scaffold board runs on gravel driveways and avoid reversing on block paving where the sub-base is suspect. The skip goes on the road wherever the highway authority permits it. If your driveway is the only access, we discuss protection measures before we start and we photograph the surface before the first lorry arrives. Any damage we cause is our liability.

Question 10

Do I need planning permission for a like-for-like reroof?

Accepted Answer

In most cases no. A like-for-like reroof using the same tile type and colour is permitted development. Exceptions are listed buildings, where listed-building consent is required for any material change, and conservation areas, where the local authority may restrict material changes. Chester city centre, several Wirral coastal towns, and a number of Cheshire village centres all have conservation area restrictions. We check the planning position at survey and handle the application if consent is needed.

Question 11

How quickly can you get to me if I have an active leak?

Accepted Answer

Our emergency callout covers the CH, L, LL, SY and WA postcode groups within 48 hours during 06:00 to 20:00 on any day of the year, including bank holidays. If the permanent repair has to wait for a material delivery, temporary breathable weatherproofing goes on the same day to stop water getting in.

Question 12

Do you charge a call-out fee?

Accepted Answer

No call-out fee. We charge for the work done. The inspection is free. If we come out and the repair is a ten-minute fix, we charge for ten minutes of labour plus any materials used. We quote before we start, not after. Simple single-trade repairs typically run between £150 and £450 plus VAT.

Question 13

Can a single slipped tile be replaced or do I always need a section redone?

Accepted Answer

A single slipped tile is usually a straightforward swap if the tile itself is not cracked and the batten behind it is sound. We carry Marley Edgemere singles and Duo Edge singles for the dominant post-war tile stock, plus Westmorland green and Welsh blue-grey in common sizes for Victorian and Edwardian slate work. Most repair visits we can source a matching tile on the same day rather than leaving a visible patch.

Question 14

What is the difference between a temporary fix and a permanent repair?

Accepted Answer

A temporary fix is breathable overlay tape or a lead-weight patch that stops water entering while we wait for materials, scaffold access, or better weather to do the job properly. It is not guaranteed and we say so. A permanent repair uses the correct specification material, dressed and fixed correctly: Code 4 or Code 5 lead sheet formed on site, like-for-like tile, BS 5534 fixings. The 5-year workmanship guarantee covers permanent repairs only.

Question 15

How do I tell if the leak is the roof or the chimney flashing?

Accepted Answer

A roof leak typically tracks in along the underlay and drips near the ridge or a valley. A flashing failure usually shows as water coming in at the wall junction, either at the chimney breast or at the gable end. Staining on the inside of the chimney breast face, or a damp patch that is high on the wall rather than on the ceiling, almost always points to flashing. That said, leaks are rarely clean; we find the source on inspection rather than guessing from inside.

Question 16

Will my insurance cover roof repairs from storm damage?

Accepted Answer

Usually yes for damage caused by a specific storm event, not for gradual deterioration. Insurers need evidence that the damage was sudden: before and after photos, a Met Office timestamp on the event, and a report from us confirming the cause. We provide a written condition report that most insurers accept for claims. We do not inflate quotes for insurance jobs; the price is the price.

Question 17

What is the smallest job you will come out for?

Accepted Answer

No minimum job size. A single cracked ridge cap, a slipped slate, or a blocked valley is worth doing. Small repairs prevent large ones. We are not a company that turns away small jobs and then wonders why customers do not call back for the bigger work.

Question 18

Why are repair quotes from different roofers so different for the same job?

Accepted Answer

Three common reasons. First, access: some quotes include scaffold and some do not, and scaffold adds £400 to £800 to any job requiring chimney or ridge access. Always ask if scaffold is included. Second, specification: a temporary patch costs less than a properly formed lead flashing. Third, some roofers quote for a reroof when a repair is correct. We tell you what the roof actually needs after inspection, and our quote details exactly what is included.

Question 19

How long is a roof repair warranty?

Accepted Answer

Five years on workmanship. Where the repair involves new lead sheet, the lead itself will outlast the guarantee by decades; Code 4 sheet lead dressed correctly is a 50-year material. Where we fit new tile or slate, the manufacturer guarantee on those materials runs from 25 to 60 years depending on product. The 5-year cover is on what we did with the material, not on the material itself.

Question 20

EPDM rubber vs fibreglass GRP vs felt: which is the best flat-roof system?

Accepted Answer

EPDM (Firestone) and GRP (CURE IT) are both correct modern systems. Felt is not: the 1970s and 1980s torch-on felt that covers most of the mid-century estate stock across Ellesmere Port, Runcorn and the Wirral south is past its service life. Between EPDM and GRP, EPDM is our first call on larger roofs with simple geometry because it goes down as a single bonded sheet with no field seams. GRP is better on small or complex roofs where upstands, outlets and penetrations make sheet laying difficult. Both carry BBA certification and 20-year manufacturer guarantees.

Question 21

How long does a flat roof actually last?

Accepted Answer

Firestone EPDM has tested lifespan data beyond 50 years in commercial applications; the product guarantee is 20 years. CURE IT GRP carries a 20-year material guarantee. Old-style three-layer felt is typically 10 to 15 years to first failure, less in the freeze-thaw conditions that hit Merseyside and north Cheshire from October to March. If your flat roof is more than 15 years old and has never been replaced, it is worth an inspection.

Question 22

Can a flat roof leak be repaired or does it need a full replacement?

Accepted Answer

It depends on the age and condition of the system. A pinhole in a three-year-old EPDM roof is a repair job. A blistering, split, and ponding 1980s felt roof is a replacement job. Patching failed felt with torch-on sections buys time, not a solution; the patch bonds to a failing substrate and the failure continues adjacent to the patch. We inspect the deck and the surface before recommending either. If the deck boards are sound and only the surface has failed, a strip-and-recover is a one-day job.

Question 23

Why does my flat roof pool water in one spot?

Accepted Answer

Flat roofs are designed with a minimum 1:80 fall toward the outlet. If you have a persistent pool that takes more than 48 hours to drain after rain, the deck has deflected, the outlet is blocked, or the original fall was not adequate. Ponding over 25mm deep causes accelerated UV degradation on felt and can stress EPDM bonded seams over time. We check fall, outlet position and deck condition as part of any flat-roof inspection.

Question 24

How long does flat roof installation take?

Accepted Answer

A standard single-garage flat roof in EPDM is typically one day from strip to finished system. A larger rear-extension flat of 30 to 50 square metres runs one to two days. GRP on a complex geometry with multiple upstands and outlets is usually two days to allow the resin cure time between coats. We do not rush GRP cures; a rushed laminate is where delamination problems start.

Question 25

Do you recover over the old felt or strip it off first?

Accepted Answer

We strip first, always. Recovering over failed felt hides the deck condition from you and from us. If there is softness, rot, or delamination in the boards under the felt, a recover traps moisture and the new system fails from beneath. We strip to the deck, replace any soft or wet boards with 18mm WBP plywood, then lay the new system onto a solid substrate. The cost difference between strip-and-recover and recover-only is not large; the outcome difference is significant.

Question 26

Can a flat roof support solar panels?

Accepted Answer

EPDM flat roofs can carry ballasted or mechanically fixed panel systems, provided the structural deck is assessed for the additional load first. Ballasted systems sit on the EPDM surface with rubber pad feet; they do not penetrate the membrane. Mechanically fixed systems require penetrations that need EPDM-compatible flashing boots. We can specify the penetration detail, but the structural load assessment for the deck and joists needs a structural engineer sign-off before panels go on.

Question 27

What warranty do I get on a new flat roof?

Accepted Answer

Ten years workmanship from Stockholms, insurance-backed through Q Assure, plus 20 years material guarantee from Firestone (EPDM) or CURE IT (GRP). We register both guarantees in your name. The Q Assure cover means that even if we were no longer trading, the workmanship guarantee remains valid through the insurer.

Question 28

How do I know if my chimney needs repointing?

Accepted Answer

Look for mortar joints that are recessed more than 10mm from the brick face, or joints where the mortar is friable and comes away when you push a key into it. At ground level you may see mortar fragments on the roof tiles or gutters below the stack. Inside, a damp patch on the chimney breast wall, particularly high up near the ceiling, often points to mortar failure at the stack rather than a flashing problem. We inspect all four faces of the stack from scaffold.

Question 29

What is lead flashing and why does it fail?

Accepted Answer

Lead flashing is the Code 4 or Code 5 lead sheet cut into the mortar joints of the chimney stack and dressed over the tiles to seal the junction between the stack and the roof slope. It fails for three reasons: the mortar raking that holds the lead in the joint washes out over time; the lead work-hardens through thermal cycling and cracks at the bends; or it was fitted as surface-fixed soakers that were never cut into the joint at all and simply lift in the wind. Code 4 sheet lead correctly cut and dressed should last 50-plus years.

Question 30

Can the chimney be removed entirely and what does that involve?

Accepted Answer

Yes, a full chimney removal is possible. The stack is taken down to below the roof line, the opening is made good with matching brickwork, and the roof is retiled across the area. You lose the external character of the stack, and where the chimney breast runs through a room below, the internal breast and alcoves typically remain unless you take that out as a separate job requiring an RSJ and Building Regs sign-off. Removal of a stack and retiling the gap typically costs £1,500 to £2,800 depending on the stack height and tile matching required.

Question 31

Why is chimney repointing expensive when it is just mortar?

Accepted Answer

The mortar is cheap. The scaffold is not. Chimney access always requires a scaffold lift to the ridge line or above, which adds £400 to £800 depending on height and roof pitch. Beyond scaffold, correct repointing of a pre-1919 chimney needs a lime-sand mix matched to the original rather than OPC Portland cement. Hard Portland on Victorian brickwork spalls the brick face within a decade because the cement is harder than the brick. Getting the mix right takes time and the right materials. When we are on scaffold anyway, we inspect all four faces and address any other issues at the same visit rather than putting a scaffold up twice.

Question 32

Will repointing the chimney affect the inside of the chimney breast?

Accepted Answer

Not directly. The mortar joints on the external face of the stack are separate from the internal flue lining. Repointing stops external moisture getting into the brickwork through open joints; it does not change the flue. If the chimney is still in use with a wood burner or open fire, we recommend a HETAS sweep inspection of the flue liner as a separate exercise before use, independent of any repointing work.

Question 33

How long does a chimney rebuild take?

Accepted Answer

A partial rebuild from the flashing line up, which is the most common chimney rebuild, takes two to three days on scaffold including brick matching, rebuilding to plumb, new flaunching, and pot re-setting. A full stack rebuild from the roof line takes three to four days. We include the scaffold erect and strike in that programme. The chimney is weatherproof at the end of each working day; we do not leave an open stack overnight.

Question 34

Is scaffolding always necessary for chimney work?

Accepted Answer

For any repointing, flashing renewal, or rebuild, yes. A two-story chimney stack sits 8 to 10 metres above ground level on a typical semi-detached house. That is above the working limit for a ladder and cannot be accessed safely from the roof slope without a platform. PASMA regulations require a working platform for sustained overhead work at that height. We do not try to do chimney lead work from a ladder.

Question 35

What causes a chimney to leak in the first place?

Accepted Answer

Three causes account for most of the chimney calls we attend. One: failed lead flashing at the step-and-cover junction where the stack meets the roof slope, either because the lead has cracked through thermal cycling or the mortar raking has washed out. Two: open mortar joints on the external stack face allowing rain to saturate the brickwork. Three: cracked flaunching (the sloped cement collar around the pots) that allows rainwater to track down into the stack interior. All three are visible from scaffold and all three are fixable in a single visit where the stack is otherwise sound.

Question 36

How long does chimney repointing last?

Accepted Answer

A correctly specified lime-sand repoint on Victorian brickwork should last 30 to 50 years before it needs redoing. Portland cement repointing on older brickwork tends to cause brick face spalling within 10 to 15 years and then needs harder remediation than a lime repoint would have required. We specify the mortar mix to match the original at every chimney job.

Question 37

UPVC vs aluminium vs cast-iron style guttering: which is best?

Accepted Answer

For most post-war residential stock, standard uPVC Deepflow 115mm half-round or ogee from Kayflow is the practical answer: it is maintenance-free, it will not rust, and Kayflow carry a 10-year guarantee. On Victorian and Edwardian properties where the original cast-iron profile is part of the street character, Heritage cast-iron style aluminium from Alumasc carries the same profile without the weight, the rust risk, or the repainting requirement. The Alumasc range carries a 25-year guarantee. Genuine cast-iron is still available for listed properties; it performs well but requires painting every five to seven years.

Question 38

How long does guttering typically last?

Accepted Answer

Standard uPVC ogee or half-round in a sheltered position will last 20 to 30 years before UV embrittlement and joint failure becomes an issue. On north-facing or exposed elevations it tends toward the lower end of that range. Alumasc Heritage aluminium carries a 25-year guarantee and in practice outlasts that. Cast-iron guttering that is properly painted lasts indefinitely; we have cleared and refixed original Victorian cast-iron that is still structurally sound after 120 years.

Question 39

Why do my gutters keep blocking?

Accepted Answer

The three most common causes: overhanging trees dropping leaf and seed matter directly into the gutter run; a flat or reverse-fall section that holds standing water and accumulates debris instead of flushing it to the outlet; or a downpipe outlet with too small a bore for the catchment area of the roof above it. We clear and flush, check the fall across the run, and advise on outlet sizing on every guttering visit.

Question 40

Should I replace the fascias and soffits at the same time as the guttering?

Accepted Answer

If the timber fascia behind the gutter is soft, yes. A bracket screwed into soft timber will not hold the gutter load and the run will sag inside a season. The fascia comes off as part of the guttering replacement anyway, so the additional labour cost to fit new uPVC fascia at the same time is smaller than it would be as a separate job. We always probe the fascia timber before quoting and tell you clearly whether the boards are sound enough to hold a new gutter run.

Question 41

Can guttering be repaired or does it always need replacing?

Accepted Answer

Union joints that have sprung, loose brackets, and sagging sections can all be repaired at low cost. A single cracked section can be cut out and a new section spliced in with union joints. uPVC that has cracked through brittleness cannot be welded in-situ reliably; those sections need replacing. If more than half the run is cracked, sagging, or bracket-failed, a full replacement is usually more cost-effective than section-by-section repair because most of the labour time in both jobs is the same.

Question 42

Do you clear the gutters before quoting for replacement?

Accepted Answer

We clear the outlet and run enough to assess the flow and the fall when we inspect for a replacement quote. A full gutter clean is a separate service; we charge between £80 and £180 depending on storey height if that is all the work required.

Question 43

How long does a full gutter replacement take?

Accepted Answer

A full guttering and downpipe replacement on a three-bedroom semi is typically a one-day job. Detached houses with more complex rooflines and longer runs are one to two days. We remove the old guttering and downpipes, check and probe the fascia condition, fit new brackets into sound timber or new fascia where needed, and commission the run with a hose test before we leave.

Question 44

Are you insured to work on terrace properties at full height?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We carry £5 million public liability insurance and work regularly on two- and three-storey terraced properties across Liverpool, Birkenhead, Wallasey, Crewe and Macclesfield. For three-storey work we use podium steps or a MEWP rather than extended ladders where the access geometry requires it. We do not work from unsupported ladders at full terrace height.

Question 45

What is the difference between a fascia, a soffit, and a bargeboard?

Accepted Answer

The fascia is the vertical board that runs along the eaves line, front-facing, and carries the gutter. The soffit is the horizontal board that closes the gap between the fascia and the wall beneath the eaves. The bargeboard (or vergeboard) runs along the gable end at the verge of the roof slope rather than the eaves. All three are part of the same system and tend to fail together, particularly on timber-clad 1970s and 1980s stock where the original paint has been neglected.

Question 46

Why do my white uPVC fascias look brown?

Accepted Answer

UV yellowing and algae staining are the two causes. Standard white uPVC goes straw-coloured within 15 to 25 years through UV oxidation; it cannot be painted back to white reliably because the oxidised surface does not hold paint adhesion well. Green-brown staining below the gutter line is usually algae growing in the persistent damp caused by an overflowing or sagging gutter run. Fix the gutter first, then replace the fascia; fitting new fascia under a gutter that is still overflowing just starts the cycle again.

Question 47

Should I match the existing colour or change it when replacing fascias?

Accepted Answer

Your call, but bear in mind that anthracite grey uPVC (RAL 7016 or similar) is now the most popular alternative to white on residential stock across the region and adds to kerb appeal on the right property. If the house is within a conservation area or is listed, the local authority may have a preferred colour or material; we check that at survey. On properties where the render is white and the window frames are white, matching white fascia tends to look most coherent.

Question 48

Does Cedral fibre cement cladding last longer than uPVC cladding?

Accepted Answer

Yes, in terms of material longevity. Cedral is guaranteed 15 years against rot, cracking, and delamination by the manufacturer; in practice fibre cement board lasts considerably longer in the climate conditions we see across Merseyside and north Wales. It is paintable, holds colour well, and does not warp or creak in temperature change the way hollow uPVC weatherboard can. uPVC is cheaper upfront and maintenance-free; Cedral gives a more substantial finish and outlasts uPVC by a considerable margin.

Question 49

Do you replace just the rotten boards or the whole run?

Accepted Answer

We replace whatever is necessary, no more. If two sections of a long fascia run are soft at the ends and the rest is sound, we cut out those sections and splice in new board. We do not replace a full run to upsell the job. That said, where more than 40% of a run is soft or cracked, a full replacement is usually more cost-effective than section repair because the labour for both approaches is similar and a partial replacement leaves visible joint lines.

Question 50

Will replacing the fascia affect my existing guttering?

Accepted Answer

The guttering has to come off to replace the fascia, so you have the opportunity to inspect the gutter condition at the same time with no additional labour cost. If the guttering is sound, it goes back on the new fascia with new brackets at the correct spacing. If it is cracked or brittle, this is the logical moment to replace it. We advise on the guttering condition when we strip it and quote the options before putting anything back up.

Question 51

How long does a fascia and soffit replacement take?

Accepted Answer

A three-bedroom semi with a standard hip-and-gable roofline is typically a one-day job for fascia, soffit, and bargeboards. Detached houses with a longer eaves run and more complex roofline are one to two days. Where cladding is included in the scope, add one day per elevation depending on the area. We work around existing guttering brackets and rainwater outlets as we go, so there is no period where the property is unprotected at the eaves.

Question 52

What warranty do I get on fascia and soffit replacement?

Accepted Answer

Ten years workmanship from Stockholms on all fascia and soffit replacement work. uPVC cellular board carries a 10-year manufacturer guarantee and will not rot, blister, or require painting. Cedral and Hardie Plank carry 15-year product guarantees from the respective manufacturers. All guarantees are provided in writing on completion.

Question 53

Do I need planning permission for a loft conversion?

Accepted Answer

Most rear dormer and Velux conversions on houses in England fall within permitted development rights. The PD envelope allows up to 40 cubic metres of additional roof space on a semi-detached house and 50 cubic metres on a detached house, provided the dormer does not protrude above the ridge line or forward of the original roof plane at the front elevation. Planning permission is required for listed buildings, for properties in designated conservation areas, and for any conversion that alters the front elevation. In Wales, PD rights operate under a separate Welsh Ministers regime and the envelope differs; we apply under the correct regime for the property location.

Question 54

What does Building Regulations Part L mean for my loft conversion?

Accepted Answer

Part L sets the minimum thermal performance of any new or altered building element. For a loft conversion it means the new roof slope and any dormer walls must achieve a U-value of 0.16 W/m2K or better. In practice, on a 100mm rafter, 90mm Kingspan TP10 PIR between the rafters plus 50mm PIR below achieves compliance. The same performance from mineral wool alone is not physically possible in that rafter depth. We spec to Part L compliance and provide the documentation for Building Control sign-off.

Question 55

How long does a typical loft conversion take?

Accepted Answer

A Velux conversion with structural alterations, new stair, and plasterboard finish is typically four to six weeks on site from scaffold up to handover. A rear dormer conversion runs six to eight weeks depending on dormer size and finish. A hip-to-gable conversion is priced and programmed on survey. These timelines assume weather-dry working for the structural and roofing phases; we build contingency in for the external works.

Question 56

What is a party wall agreement and do I need one for a loft conversion?

Accepted Answer

A party wall agreement under the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 is required where your conversion work affects a shared wall, a shared ceiling/floor structure, or the foundations within 3 metres of a neighbour's building. For most Velux conversions on semi-detached houses, the work is within your own structure and no party wall notice is needed. Hip-to-gable conversions that involve building a new gable wall at the party boundary typically do require a notice. We advise at survey; where a notice is needed, we recommend a party wall surveyor.

Question 57

Will a loft conversion add value to my house?

Accepted Answer

On most three-bedroom semis across the L and CH postcode areas, a completed loft conversion with a bedroom and en-suite typically adds 15 to 20% to the property value according to Nationwide Building Society data. The conversion cost is typically £18,000 to £28,000 for a Velux room, £26,000 to £42,000 for a dormer bedroom with en-suite. On houses where the alternative is an extension, loft conversion cost per square metre is substantially lower because the roof structure already exists.

Question 58

Can my existing roof structure support a loft conversion?

Accepted Answer

It depends on the roof type. Cut-rafter roofs on pre-1970 houses have individual rafters and ridge boards that can usually be modified and reinforced to carry a conversion. Trussed-rafter roofs on post-1970 houses use prefabricated trusses that cannot be cut without structural replacement; a conversion on a trussed-rafter roof requires new structural steelwork to replace the trusses. We survey the roof structure at the initial visit and commission a structural engineer's assessment before any design work begins.

Question 59

What is the difference between a Velux conversion, a dormer, and a hip-to-gable?

Accepted Answer

A Velux conversion keeps the existing roof profile and adds rooflights in the slope. It is the least expensive and least disruptive option, and it is permitted development on most properties. A dormer adds a flat-roofed or pitched box to the rear slope, increasing headroom and floor area significantly. A hip-to-gable conversion rebuilds a hipped roof end as a vertical gable, which maximises floor area on end-of-terrace and detached houses with a hipped end. Each has different structural and planning implications; the right type depends on your roof shape, your aims, and your budget.

Question 60

Do you handle the design and the build, or just the build?

Accepted Answer

Both. We handle the full scope from structural design through Building Regulations application, roof alterations, first-fix and second-fix carpentry, and completed finish. We commission the structural engineer, submit the Building Regs full-plans application, and manage Building Control inspections through to the completion certificate. If planning permission is required, we handle that application too. You deal with one company from survey to handover.

Question 61

What does a loft conversion typically cost?

Accepted Answer

A Velux conversion with two rooflights, structural alterations, new stair, and plasterboard finish including Building Regulations through to completion certificate runs between £18,000 and £28,000 on a standard three-bedroom semi across the L and CH postcode areas. A full rear dormer with bedroom and en-suite adds £8,000 to £14,000 to that depending on dormer size and finish specification. All prices are fixed-price after a structural survey; what we quote is what you pay.

Question 62

How does the staircase get in?

Accepted Answer

The new loft stair typically takes space from the landing of the floor below, or in some cases from a bedroom, depending on the floor plan. The structural engineer specifies the opening size and the trimmer arrangement around the stair well. Building Regulations Part K requires a minimum 2 metre headroom over the stair pitch where possible, and Part B requires a 30-minute fire-rated enclosure around the stair route from ground to loft. We walk through the stair position options at the initial survey visit so there are no surprises when the structural work starts.

Question 63

How thick should loft insulation be in 2026?

Accepted Answer

Building Regulations Part L sets 270mm as the minimum for new installations on a cold loft. The Energy Saving Trust and insulation manufacturers recommend 400mm for optimal thermal performance given current energy prices. Most pre-2000 houses in the L, CH, LL and WA postcode areas have 100mm or less, which is the 1980s standard. Moving from 100mm to 270mm of mineral wool cuts heat loss through the roof by roughly 75%. The payback period at current gas prices is typically three to five years.

Question 64

Can I get a grant for loft insulation in 2026?

Accepted Answer

The Great British Insulation Scheme (GBIS) and the Energy Company Obligation (ECO4) both offer funded or subsidised insulation for households in lower Council Tax bands or with a means-tested benefit. Eligibility is assessed by postcode and household income. We can advise on whether your property is likely to qualify and point you toward the correct application route. Privately funded installation carries a 5-year workmanship guarantee regardless of grant eligibility.

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